I've used almost every bent bar/camber bar of this type and I think the Ironmind Buffalo Bar is the best of them. The reason might actually be because it's the least cambered: there's a little over 1" of drop from the center knurl to the sleeves on the Buffalo compared to the Kabuki Duffalo's 2" and the Rogue CB-4's 4.4". For squatting, more drop means your hand placement can be much lower; good for the shoulders, but produces more sway like a true camber bar. For every other movement you might do with one of these the gentle curve of the Buffalo feels better in the hands. It's also a Goldilocks thickness of 35mm compared to the bit-too-thin Duffalo at 30mm and the hefty CB-4 at 38mm. It's 52 lbs. unloaded which is pretty close to a normal bar compared to the Duffalo's 55 lbs. and the CB-4's 60 lbs. Mine has only a larger, sticky-but-not-sharp center knurl with IWF rings, dating it between 1990-2006. 2007 and after is knurled like a normal power bar with IPF rings. It's a daily driver bar for me. I use it for squats, split squats, lunges, bench press, close-grip bench press, and some others that were surprising. This bar is perfect for upright rows because your hands can gently turn out, helping you "pull apart" the bar as you drag it up your shirt. It's excellent for one-arm deadlifts because the camber discourages the bar rolling in your hand. In Alan Calvert's 1924 book "Super Strength" he recommends a bent bar for the one-arm barbell clean (!) and the one-arm barbell snatch (!!) for that reason. The price new is outrageous. I got mine used for $250 from a strong older guy who trained with it in his no-heat/no-insulation frozen Minnesota garage gym for over 20 years. It's a raw, unfinished bar but is only gently brownish/faded after all that time. I do wipe off the rusty dust it collects with a rag before every workout. On IM's website some reviewer says he emailed about the rust issue and they replied that only wimps want rust proof bars!

I love fat grip type implements and have a stack of them the way some people have walls of cable attachments. While it is nice to have a variety of grips, these Grip4orce Grips are my favorite. The name is kind of bizarre; if you said it out loud, would it be "Grip Four Orce"? However, they work in very unique way for a fat grip because they're shaped like the letter 'C' instead of mostly 'O'-like like the others. You have to actively squeeze these to keep them shut or the bar will slip out. The black heavy duty ones are the only ones you should consider. They require effort to keep closed but not a preposterous amount. If you aren't keeping the open part facing down where the bar could fall you aren't actively using the fear factor to force you to squeeze harder! They work best on deadlifts, rows, and pulls from the floor but I like them a lot on curls, too. In order to keep them closed hard, you need to focus on pressing your pinkies into them just as hard as your other fingers. This also is a relevant cue to a great bicep or hammer curl. The active recruitment required is excellent for developing grip strength and a nice forearm pump. Because of their design you really shouldn't use them overhead unless you don't point the open side down, which defeats the purpose. This does limit their versatility. However, where these really shine over all other such grips is the knurl! Yes, the molded plastic waffle iron type design, whatever you want to call it, is actually very aggressive! It leaves an imprint in your hand when you're done, which if you've used the OG Fat Gripz know they're too slick and slippery to ever do. This aids you in gripping them hard and crushing them tight. Funnily enough, I first saw these used by Eric Bugenhagen who also used them as plate spacers by clamping them on barbell sleeves. As an added bonus they're made in the USA. Not cheap, but highly recommended for all true Gripz enthuziaztz.

The Bob is a simple slab of heavy duty plastic and rubber but the results it delivers always surprise me. You need to use it while holding on to something (the manual even instructs this). The 'A-Ha' realization is keeping your feet flat on the Bob at all times and resist the urge to come up on your toes, which puts excellent focus on the entire calf. Imagine pressing your heel down until it slightly touches the floor and alternate by pressing your toes down until they slightly touch the floor. You can add variety by Bobbin' forward or flipping it backwards because it's not an equilateral triangle; one side is longer than the other. You can also change the placement of your feet. I like to do my sets this way: BOB forward, 15 reps with feet straight, 15 reps with feet pointed diagonally up and right, 15 reps with feet pointed diagonally up and left, 15 reps with feet pointed diagonally in (toes in), 15 reps with feet pointed diagonally out (toes out). Flip the BOB backwards and repeat. I do three sets. It sounds like a lot but I usually do them while watching Youtube videos. Don't let this fool you. You can absolutely do these until you can't walk up and down stairs for a couple days. The BOB hammers my calves like no block or toe raise ever did for me. You can use it under a bar but because the nature of use is rocking back and forth, it works best with a safety squat type yoke that will stay put while you hold on to the rack. It's very expensive for what it is, but it's made in the USA and absolutely delivers. After years of use it still gets results.